Register here: http://gg.gg/p4cib
Watch our video on how to put up a fence with concrete posts and bases
Following these steps will enable you to plot, prepare and erect your fence posts and panels.
Best Case Scenario. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to get your fence panels back in pretty much the same way they came out. The best case scenario is when you can lift the fence panel up, fit one edge in the groove in the post, and bend the bottom of the panel just enough so you can push the other edge between the posts. Me and my family laying my daughters fence using concrete posts, concrete gravel boards and wooden fencing. Lay your gravel boards on the ground between your posts. Make sure they slot into the grooves of the posts. Slot you Fence Panels into your Slotted Concrete Posts. You should be able to slot each of the fence panels between the concrete posts, from above. It is best to get someone to help you lift the fence panels into place. A) Put approx 2 ’ of concrete into the hole and measure to check that the post will sit at the correct height allowing for the post to bed 1’ into the concrete. B) Hold your post with the slot against the fencing section and holding it level, slide the post down the section and into place. The cleats simply slot into the fence post using two holes located near the bottom of the fence post and then the gravel board is bolted onto the cleat, usually using bolts. Some concrete fence posts have four holes is to allow a choice of position.1. Getting started
Clear the new fence line of all old fencing, bushes, shrubs and debris.2. Marking up
Mark the position of any suspected drains or services.3. Measuring
Measure the line, marking rough post positions and check levels to determine the best place to start fitting the fence.
a) One end of the fence line (the finish point) will usually require a short panel which can be cut to size and then slid into place (beware of overhanging trees or the eves of the house).
b) If the ground slopes, it is always much easier to start at the highest point and work downhill (the posts are set to the height of the fitted panel instead of the panel to follow).4. Digging out your first post hole
a) This may not be necessary if you can work from an existing post.
b) If you are working from a wall or other vertical surface you can use a uchannel or a post screwed/bolted into place.
c) Calculate the total height of your fence panel plus base panel(s) and add 1 1/2’ (the post looks better finishing above the panels ) then mark the inside of the slot (this should be the point on the post where the bottom of the panel will sit).
d) Measure the post below the mark and add 1’ (3ft fence = approx 29’ 4ft to 7ft fence = approx 22’ 8ft fence = approx 25’).
e) Dig a shallow trench to accommodate your first base panel (the trench should be level and be a minimum of 1’ below the surrounding ground level).
f) Carefully dig your post hole (This should be approx 9’ sq and the measurement guided by section d - above) below the bottom of the trench. 5. Mix the concrete
a) Add and mix 1 1/2 shovels full of cement to 1 bag of scalpings then add water to achieve an even and firm but sticky consistency.
b) If using postmix add the water as per instructions on the bag.6. Setting your first post
a) Put approximately 1/2 a shovel of concrete into the hole to give a 2’ depth.
b) Gently lower and position the post into the hole checking using a level that it is upright and the mark in the post slot (from section 4 c) should be just above the height of the trench.
c) Add more concrete around the post and compact using a podger (technical term for a thick batten used to push and compact ’podge’ the concrete into the hole).
d) Fill the hole around the post with concrete to just under ground level and in the slot to just above the mark (from section 4 c). 7. Setting a stringline
Set up a string-line approximately 2’ above the ground to run about 1/8’ off your first post to the same point on your projected last post. 8. Mark & Dig your next hole
a) Place a 6’ top rail in the trench to represent the fencing section and put a flat flag or brick etc. in the trench approx 4’ back from the end and approx 2’ below the top of the fresh concrete in the slot.
b) Looking down the string-line keeping the side of the post below the string-line parallel with the string move the toprail so that it also runs parallel , The toprail now represents the correct position for the concrete base.
c) Mark the position required for the post hole, remove the toprail and dig the hole (This should be approximately 9’ square and the measurement (guided by section 4d above) below the bottom of the flag. 9. Setting up your first fence section
a) Put your concrete base panel into position, it should rest on the flag and slide down the slot into the mix ,line it up using the string (as stated in 8a) you can now put a level on the concrete base and fine tune as necessary.
b) Using a rubber maul tap the base into the concrete mix until it sits at the correct height , then if required lift the other end using slate between the base panel and flag.
c) Put further bases (if required) and or your fence panel onto the base and into the post slot.10. Fitting your next post
a) Put approx 2 ’ of concrete into the hole and measure to check that the post will sit at the correct height allowing for the post to bed 1’ into the concrete.
b) Hold your post with the slot against the fencing section and holding it level, slide the post down the section and into place.
c) Using a level and the stringline fine tune the position of the bottom of the post so that it sits upright against the fencing section and approx 1/8’ off the string.
d) If the post sinks too low then you will need to lift it , if it sits a little high this can be remedied afterwards.
e) Add more concrete around the post and compact using a podger (as mentioned above).
d) Fill the hole around the post with concrete to just under ground level and in the slot to allow the next base to be bedded into it at the correct height.
e) If required, tap the post down using the rubber maul until at the correct height.
Repeat sections 8 to 10 until you reach the end of the fence line.11. Fitting the rest
Repeat sections 8 to 10 until you reach the end of the fence line12. Fitting your last post
a) This may not be necessary if you can work from an existing post.
b) If you are working from a wall or other vertical surface you can use a uchannel or post screwed/bolted into place.
c) Calculate the total height of your fence panel plus base panel(s) and add 1 1/2’ (the post looks better finishing above the panels) then mark the inside of the slot (this should be the point on the post where the bottom of the base panel will sit).
d) Measure the post below the mark and add 1’ (3ft fence = approx 29’ 4ft to 7ft fence = approx 22’ 8ft fence = approx 25’).
e) Dig a shallow trench to accommodate your last, usually short base panel (the trench should be level and be a minimum of 1’ below the surrounding ground level).
f) Carefully dig your post hole (This should be approx 9’ sq and the measurement guided by section d above) below the bottom of the trench.How To Slot Fence Panels Into Concrete Posts Home Depot
g) Put approx. 2’ of concrete into the hole and measure to check that the post will sit at the correct height allowing for the post to bed 1’ into the concrete.
h) Lift and lower the post into place.
i) Using a level and the string-line fine tune the position of the bottom of the post so that the post sits upright,up against the fencing section and approx.1/8 ’ off the string.
j) If the post sinks to low then lift it, if it sits a little high this can be remedied after.
k) Add more concrete around the post and compact using a podger.
l) Fill the hole around the post with concrete to just under ground level and in the slot to allow the short base to be bedded into it at the correct height.
m) If required once the short panel is fitted using the rubber maul tap post down to the correct height.13. Measure cut and fit your short panel
a) Measure the gap between the post slots and knock off 1/4’.
b) Order the short panels to be made from Cocklestorm fencing or c) & d).
c) Cut the concrete base panel using a disc cutter.
d) Cut the fencing panel using a good hand saw or preferably a circular saw then re-batten and nail.
e) Slide the concrete base into the slots and bed into the mix to the correct level then slide the wooden panel in.14. Benching and Tidying
a) This can be done at the end or as you go along.
b) To bench up you need to place concrete under the end of the base supported on the flag this means both ends of the base panel are concreted directly to the post and will stop any movement over time.
c) Spread the soil removed from the hole along the fence-line to the same level as the existing ground.How To Slot Fence Panels Into Concrete Posts PostAnd finally...Tools you’ll need
*Stringline
*Level
*Wheelbarrow
*Grafting spade
*Shovel
*Tape measure
*Hammer
*Saw
*Rubber maul
*Steel barMaterials required
*Posts
*Bases
*Fencing panels
*Mix (concrete, aggregate)
*Safety equipmentAsk a tradesman Landscape Gardening
I will attempt to explain this in as much detail as possible so not to find repeat answers I have found on the internet.
I currently have an old wire fence, I would like to replace this with wooden panels without having to replace the existing concrete posts.
The concrete posts:- Do not have grooves to slot panels into- Do not have forward facing holes (e.g. wouldn’t be able to attach a panel to the front, drill through the wood and bolt either side)- Have some holes on the sides of the posts (where the wire links through the concrete post to the next section)- When I have seen these described online it has more so been boundary markers than fencing posts
I will not have the means to drill in new holes - is there a way to attach new wooden panels to what currently exists? What would I need to look for in a wooden panel to achieve this? What screws/bolts will I need? Could I attach something horizontally somehow - then attach the wooden fencing panels to this instead of the posts?
Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated!55 Answers from MyBuilder Landscape Gardeners
Best Answer60166
You could fix timber to the existing concrete posts using the existing wire holes. Then run panels across the front using the timber to fix to.Or run additional timber across these to form a framework to attach the fence panels to.You could also run timber rails across the timber on the posts and attach gravel boards and featheredge fencing to the rails.2017-07-18T20:35:01+01:00
Answered 18th Jul 2017 78151
you can actually put some timber in between the posters and screw them together then place the panels back you might have to make some adjustments also ,( when I said you can put some timber between the posters I mean where the panels go in gap so that’s why you put the timber) you can timber up across and then feather hedge gravel boards .you can timber up in front of the concrete so it looks like you’ve got a complete wooden fence, the choice is totally up to you2019-01-13T14:35:02+00:00
Answered 13th Jan 2019 93716
You can attach fencing rails vertically inside the posts with bolts through the holes where wire went through then placing rails close to the front edge of the concrete posts attach fence rails to them horizontally with screws then attach your fence panels2019-09-04T14:40:02+01:00
Answered 4th Sep 2019 100982
I personally have came across this many times before, I would use 4x2 treated timber to either make framework for feather edge fencing or to screw whole fence panels onto. I would use raw plugs and screws to fix to the existing concrete posts to avoid removing the concrete post which you already have. Either one of these methods allows you to use a gravel board, also trellis at the top if desired. If you want hole fence panels placed within the gaps they would need a slight bit of alteration possibly depending on how far apart the concrete post are from each other once treated timber has been put in place. You may have no choice but to use feather edge fencing if the gaps are more than ready made panels. I hope my resolutions have been of some use to yourself today and I wish you the best of luck. Thanks again for asking your question.How To Slot Fence Panels Into Concrete Posts At Home Depot2019-12-09T10:50:02+00:00
Answered 9th Dec 2019 91938
I would attach a 4x2 rail to the concrete post (bolt or if they have holes plug and screews) then feather board it that will give you best results2019-08-11T08:50:02+01:00
Answered 11th Aug 2019 How To Slot Fence Panels Into Concrete Posts ConcreteRelated Questions
*How much work do I need to do to be ’Satisfactory’
In order to satisfy my home insurance company, I recently had a NICEIC inspection on my recently purchased house (that I will be...
*Can I attach a new fence to existing spurs?
The old fence between my garden and next door’s needs replacing, it must be many years old consisting of tapered vertical boards...
*Replacing an existing lean-to garden room
I’m looking for suggestions for how best to proceed with rennovating an existing lean-to structure at the side of our house which...
*Repositioning Concrete Fence Posts due to Neighbour’s Extension
UPDATE - Thanks for the advice guys! I also sought some legal consultation and they agreed that the fence currently dictates the...
Register here: http://gg.gg/p4cib
https://diarynote-jp.indered.space
Watch our video on how to put up a fence with concrete posts and bases
Following these steps will enable you to plot, prepare and erect your fence posts and panels.
Best Case Scenario. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to get your fence panels back in pretty much the same way they came out. The best case scenario is when you can lift the fence panel up, fit one edge in the groove in the post, and bend the bottom of the panel just enough so you can push the other edge between the posts. Me and my family laying my daughters fence using concrete posts, concrete gravel boards and wooden fencing. Lay your gravel boards on the ground between your posts. Make sure they slot into the grooves of the posts. Slot you Fence Panels into your Slotted Concrete Posts. You should be able to slot each of the fence panels between the concrete posts, from above. It is best to get someone to help you lift the fence panels into place. A) Put approx 2 ’ of concrete into the hole and measure to check that the post will sit at the correct height allowing for the post to bed 1’ into the concrete. B) Hold your post with the slot against the fencing section and holding it level, slide the post down the section and into place. The cleats simply slot into the fence post using two holes located near the bottom of the fence post and then the gravel board is bolted onto the cleat, usually using bolts. Some concrete fence posts have four holes is to allow a choice of position.1. Getting started
Clear the new fence line of all old fencing, bushes, shrubs and debris.2. Marking up
Mark the position of any suspected drains or services.3. Measuring
Measure the line, marking rough post positions and check levels to determine the best place to start fitting the fence.
a) One end of the fence line (the finish point) will usually require a short panel which can be cut to size and then slid into place (beware of overhanging trees or the eves of the house).
b) If the ground slopes, it is always much easier to start at the highest point and work downhill (the posts are set to the height of the fitted panel instead of the panel to follow).4. Digging out your first post hole
a) This may not be necessary if you can work from an existing post.
b) If you are working from a wall or other vertical surface you can use a uchannel or a post screwed/bolted into place.
c) Calculate the total height of your fence panel plus base panel(s) and add 1 1/2’ (the post looks better finishing above the panels ) then mark the inside of the slot (this should be the point on the post where the bottom of the panel will sit).
d) Measure the post below the mark and add 1’ (3ft fence = approx 29’ 4ft to 7ft fence = approx 22’ 8ft fence = approx 25’).
e) Dig a shallow trench to accommodate your first base panel (the trench should be level and be a minimum of 1’ below the surrounding ground level).
f) Carefully dig your post hole (This should be approx 9’ sq and the measurement guided by section d - above) below the bottom of the trench. 5. Mix the concrete
a) Add and mix 1 1/2 shovels full of cement to 1 bag of scalpings then add water to achieve an even and firm but sticky consistency.
b) If using postmix add the water as per instructions on the bag.6. Setting your first post
a) Put approximately 1/2 a shovel of concrete into the hole to give a 2’ depth.
b) Gently lower and position the post into the hole checking using a level that it is upright and the mark in the post slot (from section 4 c) should be just above the height of the trench.
c) Add more concrete around the post and compact using a podger (technical term for a thick batten used to push and compact ’podge’ the concrete into the hole).
d) Fill the hole around the post with concrete to just under ground level and in the slot to just above the mark (from section 4 c). 7. Setting a stringline
Set up a string-line approximately 2’ above the ground to run about 1/8’ off your first post to the same point on your projected last post. 8. Mark & Dig your next hole
a) Place a 6’ top rail in the trench to represent the fencing section and put a flat flag or brick etc. in the trench approx 4’ back from the end and approx 2’ below the top of the fresh concrete in the slot.
b) Looking down the string-line keeping the side of the post below the string-line parallel with the string move the toprail so that it also runs parallel , The toprail now represents the correct position for the concrete base.
c) Mark the position required for the post hole, remove the toprail and dig the hole (This should be approximately 9’ square and the measurement (guided by section 4d above) below the bottom of the flag. 9. Setting up your first fence section
a) Put your concrete base panel into position, it should rest on the flag and slide down the slot into the mix ,line it up using the string (as stated in 8a) you can now put a level on the concrete base and fine tune as necessary.
b) Using a rubber maul tap the base into the concrete mix until it sits at the correct height , then if required lift the other end using slate between the base panel and flag.
c) Put further bases (if required) and or your fence panel onto the base and into the post slot.10. Fitting your next post
a) Put approx 2 ’ of concrete into the hole and measure to check that the post will sit at the correct height allowing for the post to bed 1’ into the concrete.
b) Hold your post with the slot against the fencing section and holding it level, slide the post down the section and into place.
c) Using a level and the stringline fine tune the position of the bottom of the post so that it sits upright against the fencing section and approx 1/8’ off the string.
d) If the post sinks too low then you will need to lift it , if it sits a little high this can be remedied afterwards.
e) Add more concrete around the post and compact using a podger (as mentioned above).
d) Fill the hole around the post with concrete to just under ground level and in the slot to allow the next base to be bedded into it at the correct height.
e) If required, tap the post down using the rubber maul until at the correct height.
Repeat sections 8 to 10 until you reach the end of the fence line.11. Fitting the rest
Repeat sections 8 to 10 until you reach the end of the fence line12. Fitting your last post
a) This may not be necessary if you can work from an existing post.
b) If you are working from a wall or other vertical surface you can use a uchannel or post screwed/bolted into place.
c) Calculate the total height of your fence panel plus base panel(s) and add 1 1/2’ (the post looks better finishing above the panels) then mark the inside of the slot (this should be the point on the post where the bottom of the base panel will sit).
d) Measure the post below the mark and add 1’ (3ft fence = approx 29’ 4ft to 7ft fence = approx 22’ 8ft fence = approx 25’).
e) Dig a shallow trench to accommodate your last, usually short base panel (the trench should be level and be a minimum of 1’ below the surrounding ground level).
f) Carefully dig your post hole (This should be approx 9’ sq and the measurement guided by section d above) below the bottom of the trench.How To Slot Fence Panels Into Concrete Posts Home Depot
g) Put approx. 2’ of concrete into the hole and measure to check that the post will sit at the correct height allowing for the post to bed 1’ into the concrete.
h) Lift and lower the post into place.
i) Using a level and the string-line fine tune the position of the bottom of the post so that the post sits upright,up against the fencing section and approx.1/8 ’ off the string.
j) If the post sinks to low then lift it, if it sits a little high this can be remedied after.
k) Add more concrete around the post and compact using a podger.
l) Fill the hole around the post with concrete to just under ground level and in the slot to allow the short base to be bedded into it at the correct height.
m) If required once the short panel is fitted using the rubber maul tap post down to the correct height.13. Measure cut and fit your short panel
a) Measure the gap between the post slots and knock off 1/4’.
b) Order the short panels to be made from Cocklestorm fencing or c) & d).
c) Cut the concrete base panel using a disc cutter.
d) Cut the fencing panel using a good hand saw or preferably a circular saw then re-batten and nail.
e) Slide the concrete base into the slots and bed into the mix to the correct level then slide the wooden panel in.14. Benching and Tidying
a) This can be done at the end or as you go along.
b) To bench up you need to place concrete under the end of the base supported on the flag this means both ends of the base panel are concreted directly to the post and will stop any movement over time.
c) Spread the soil removed from the hole along the fence-line to the same level as the existing ground.How To Slot Fence Panels Into Concrete Posts PostAnd finally...Tools you’ll need
*Stringline
*Level
*Wheelbarrow
*Grafting spade
*Shovel
*Tape measure
*Hammer
*Saw
*Rubber maul
*Steel barMaterials required
*Posts
*Bases
*Fencing panels
*Mix (concrete, aggregate)
*Safety equipmentAsk a tradesman Landscape Gardening
I will attempt to explain this in as much detail as possible so not to find repeat answers I have found on the internet.
I currently have an old wire fence, I would like to replace this with wooden panels without having to replace the existing concrete posts.
The concrete posts:- Do not have grooves to slot panels into- Do not have forward facing holes (e.g. wouldn’t be able to attach a panel to the front, drill through the wood and bolt either side)- Have some holes on the sides of the posts (where the wire links through the concrete post to the next section)- When I have seen these described online it has more so been boundary markers than fencing posts
I will not have the means to drill in new holes - is there a way to attach new wooden panels to what currently exists? What would I need to look for in a wooden panel to achieve this? What screws/bolts will I need? Could I attach something horizontally somehow - then attach the wooden fencing panels to this instead of the posts?
Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated!55 Answers from MyBuilder Landscape Gardeners
Best Answer60166
You could fix timber to the existing concrete posts using the existing wire holes. Then run panels across the front using the timber to fix to.Or run additional timber across these to form a framework to attach the fence panels to.You could also run timber rails across the timber on the posts and attach gravel boards and featheredge fencing to the rails.2017-07-18T20:35:01+01:00
Answered 18th Jul 2017 78151
you can actually put some timber in between the posters and screw them together then place the panels back you might have to make some adjustments also ,( when I said you can put some timber between the posters I mean where the panels go in gap so that’s why you put the timber) you can timber up across and then feather hedge gravel boards .you can timber up in front of the concrete so it looks like you’ve got a complete wooden fence, the choice is totally up to you2019-01-13T14:35:02+00:00
Answered 13th Jan 2019 93716
You can attach fencing rails vertically inside the posts with bolts through the holes where wire went through then placing rails close to the front edge of the concrete posts attach fence rails to them horizontally with screws then attach your fence panels2019-09-04T14:40:02+01:00
Answered 4th Sep 2019 100982
I personally have came across this many times before, I would use 4x2 treated timber to either make framework for feather edge fencing or to screw whole fence panels onto. I would use raw plugs and screws to fix to the existing concrete posts to avoid removing the concrete post which you already have. Either one of these methods allows you to use a gravel board, also trellis at the top if desired. If you want hole fence panels placed within the gaps they would need a slight bit of alteration possibly depending on how far apart the concrete post are from each other once treated timber has been put in place. You may have no choice but to use feather edge fencing if the gaps are more than ready made panels. I hope my resolutions have been of some use to yourself today and I wish you the best of luck. Thanks again for asking your question.How To Slot Fence Panels Into Concrete Posts At Home Depot2019-12-09T10:50:02+00:00
Answered 9th Dec 2019 91938
I would attach a 4x2 rail to the concrete post (bolt or if they have holes plug and screews) then feather board it that will give you best results2019-08-11T08:50:02+01:00
Answered 11th Aug 2019 How To Slot Fence Panels Into Concrete Posts ConcreteRelated Questions
*How much work do I need to do to be ’Satisfactory’
In order to satisfy my home insurance company, I recently had a NICEIC inspection on my recently purchased house (that I will be...
*Can I attach a new fence to existing spurs?
The old fence between my garden and next door’s needs replacing, it must be many years old consisting of tapered vertical boards...
*Replacing an existing lean-to garden room
I’m looking for suggestions for how best to proceed with rennovating an existing lean-to structure at the side of our house which...
*Repositioning Concrete Fence Posts due to Neighbour’s Extension
UPDATE - Thanks for the advice guys! I also sought some legal consultation and they agreed that the fence currently dictates the...
Register here: http://gg.gg/p4cib
https://diarynote-jp.indered.space
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